"You don't achieve harmony by everyone singing the same note" - Doug Loyd

Saturday, October 1, 2011

Why Gypsum Should Not Be Used on Soil

 

GYPSUM
In its monoclinic form

If you have clay soil, you've noticed that it's hard and doesn't accept water easily.  The reason for this is because clay can contain lime and gypsum.  But, what is gypsum?  Mined gypsum in it monoclinic state is crystallized.  When gypsum is manufactured into a massive or foliated form is green, yellow, or black based on impurities. Manufactured gypsum is a product of the action of sulfuric acid on calcium containing minerals.  It exists in clay as a result of the action of sulfuric acid on limestone. 

Artificial gypsum is a result manufacturing phosphoric acid once the phosphoric rock which contains tri-calcium phosphate is treated with sulfuric acid.  It's compacted into blocks and wall board or gypsum board and used to construct non-supporting walls.  New homes contain up to 7 metric tons of gypsum.  When gypsum is heated to 242 degrees it losses it's water and becomes Plaster of Paris.  When water is added to Plaster of Paris it dries into a hard solid piece of gypsum.  This form of plaster is desired because of it's ability to swell and seal joints.

Uncalcined (unheated) gypsum is used to fertilize arid, alkaline soil is also used to retard Portland Cement.   This kind of gypsum is uncalcined gypsum is called "Land Plaster".

If irrigating the soil is proving to be difficult it could be because your soil falls into one or both of theses classifications.  Aridsols soils occur in dry regions and are low in organic material, leaching will be insufficient to remove soluble materials such as lime, gypsum, and salt.  The World Reference Base for Soil Resources, "Gypsisols are characterized by a subsurface layer of gypsum (a hydrated calcium sulfate) accumulated by the precipitation of calcium and sulfate from downward percolating waters in the soil profile."   Encyclopedia Britannica   This type of soil requires intensive irrigation management.    

To see a photograph of what Gypsisols look like in the US use the link below.
 http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/media/19555/Gypsisol-soil-profile-from-the-United-States-showing-a-white

Using gypsum will only make everything worse not better.  So, why would we add gypsum or sulfur to the hard clay soil in an Arid region when the goal is to remove it from the root zone?  Where we have been listening to our landscapers they have been telling us to use something that will ultimately cause our soil to become as hard as plaster!  Why would they do this?

First determine if you have a large gypsum deposit in the soil's subgrade.  If so, cash in on it if you can otherwise it's time to amend your soil.  If the problem is large amounts of gypsum you need to dig to the bottom of the deposit and amend the soil.  This could mean digging several feet down before adding amendments so the soil will drain and can be leeched later. 
For clay soil you need to add the organic matter back to the soil, NOT SAND OR TOP SOIL.  To do this mix into the soil either by hand or with a tiller going about 2 foot below the surface then add 3 inches or more of hummus; Peat moss or Pro-Mix.  Pro-Mix contains the good bacteria and fungi that exist in fertile soil.  The decomposed material and incomplete decomposed material return the gasses and organic matter back into the soil that is usable.  It will also prevent water from bonding to the minerals on the surface of the soil and allow it to be absorbed and utilized by plants.  You may also notice that the soil will be cooler and easier to dig in. 

Anywhere that man has touched the land the balance of organic matter has been lost. 

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